SAN DIEGO — The colossal surf that has been pounding the California coast produced waves considered the biggest in 20 years. San Diegan JoJo Roper is a world-class big wave rider, and he made his way to Baja California to ride waves that towered homes.
"Todos presents itself like a huge Mountain of water. You're paddling over a wave, and you're looking at this 50' building coming, and now's the time to turn around and catch this thing because that's what you're here for," Roper said.
Todos Santos is an Island off the coast of Ensenada, Mexico, known as a big wave destination.
"Luckily, I grew up in San Diego; it's an hour and a half drive and then a one-hour boat ride to get out there to an incredibly big wave," Roper said.
Roper said Todos Santos attracts the best surfers. Big wave surfers such as Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Paige Alms, and Felicity Palmateer travel worldwide to surf great waves.
To ride the waves, you have to be committed. "We're out there as the sun comes up. We're greeted by the giant waves that must have been 50 to 60 feet that morning," Roper added.
A commitment that you're all in, and there's no turning back. "You get to the bottom turn, you feel the power of the ocean; it's a different feeling than surfing head-high surf at home; it's pushing back hard; it's what keeps me coming back," Roper said.
It's that sensation JoJo travels the world for but feels so blessed to have it close to home.
So, after bagging Todos, Santo JoJo Roper is looking to head to Portugal, where they plan to surf some of the biggest waves in the world.
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