SAN DIEGO — A Michelin chef who is not only recognized for his food but also for his commitment to zero waste and sustainability, opened his first US restaurant in San Diego.
31ThirtyOne by Deckmans opened in North Park in August. It attracted 3,000 reservations within just a few days of opening its books.
Chef Drew Deckman said it's a celebration of fresh ingredients.
"For us, the flavor, the freshness and origin is the most important," he said.
Chef Deckman presents Baja Oysters as his first dish for me to try.
"The way I like to eat [oysters] is straight or just a drop of lemon, because then you taste the oyster," he said.
The freshness and texture of the shellfish is incredible.
I add a drop of the Pink Peppercorn Mignonette. The flavor explodes.
Chef Deckman's passion for food led him through kitchens throughout Europe and then Mexico. He spent 10 years in Europe, he earned a Michelin star for his leadership at Germany's Restaurant Vitus. He spent 20 years cooking in Mexico.
He and his wife, Paulina Deckman, run Deckman's Restaurant Group. In May, they received a Michelin star at Conchas de Piedra, located in Valle De Guadalupe in Baja California. The restaurant also earned a rare Michelin Green Star for sustainability, one of only two restaurants in Mexico that received the dual recognition. They also earned a Michelin Green Star for their flagship restaurant, Deckman’s en el Mogor.
His food, like the decor inside 31ThirtyOne, is bright, clean, and simple. He presents a tomato dish with fried artichokes and avocados. He said tomatoes are at their peak right now.
"Some of these are slices of tomatoes with salt on them, like these," he said. "If they're at their peak, there's not much I need to do to [them], a couple drops of olive oil and you're good to go."
Chef Deckman grew up in Georgia. He graduated from Rhodes College in Memphis with a degree in Philosophy. Though he'd always loved cooking, he wasn't sure he wanted to make a career out of it.
"I'm not sure you choose the kitchen, I think the kitchen chooses you," he said. "It's such a difficult job, physically demanding, you're working hours weekends, holidays. If the passion is not there, that really deep-seeded love and passion for doing it, it's never going to be fulfilling."
His love for baseball inspired him to consider a career as a professional baseball umpire. But he decided that wasn't the path he wanted to take.
"My dad sent me a book, 'Do What You Love, The Money Will Follow,' I read it. Then three months later, I woke up and said 'I'm going back to the kitchen. And I want to do this,'" he said.
"Still waiting on the money, but I'm definitely doing what I love," he laughed.
Commitment to zero-waste, sustainability
Chef Deckman is passionate about culinary sustainability.
"The food tastes better, it just goes straight there," he said.
"You don't need a green bin because there's nothing that should go in there. You don't need a rubbish bin because you shouldn't have single-use containers. Yeah, there's always some waste, but if you can find a way to re-purpose that as well, upcycle as opposed to recycle," he said. "For me, those are conversations that should be intrinsic, they shouldn't be something we have to talk about they should be automatic."
"I'm an ingredient geek, if we don't protect or practice regenerative agriculture or protect the oceans, those ingredients aren't going to be there," he added.
31ThirtyOne is committed to donating 1% of monthly revenue to help farmers implement carbon farming projects through various grants in partnership with the international nonprofit Zero FoodPrint.
In the kitchen, he cuts a Yellowtail fish and tells me nearly everything will be used in some way. Proving the right ingredients don't need much, he adds a touch of salt and vinegar and we eat the fish right off the bone.
It tastes like pure heaven.
"It doesn't have to be complicated," he said. "Fish right off the bone. Good olive oil, salt from San Felipe Baja California."
Family life
Chef Deckman has 4 kids. His oldest son, Sam, cooks alongside him at 31ThirtyOne. Chef Sam Deckman was Executive Chef at Farmer & Seahorse. He also served as the head chef of Books & Records.
He said his son calls him 'Chef' when they're at work, which he admits, feels a little weird.
"My youngest son, who is 6, calls me 'Drew,' which is funny. He's never called me 'Dad' he calls me 'Drew.' If I'm not listening he says 'Drew Deckman!' And then he says 'Chef Drew Deckman!'" he laughed.
Meaning behind 31ThirtyOne
According to Chef Deckman, the name 31ThirtyOne, was inspired by the restaurant's address, 3131 University Avenue. It wasn't his first choice, but the original name was already being used by another restaurant in Northern California.
Chef Deckman said he's not into numerology really, but started looking into it anyway.
"3131 is an angel number if you add it together, it totals 8 which is infinity," he said.
He also pointed out that adding 3+1, and 3+1 separately, equals 44, which is Padres Pitcher Joe Musgrove's jersey number.
The Padres star is one of the restaurant's investors. Chef Deckman met Musgrove while he was a guest at one of Deckman's Baja restaurants.
Deckman later texted him.
"I said 'Hey man, if there's anybody in the clubhouse that's got loose change on their couches, and they want to jump in, here's our deck if you want to share it with anybody.' And [Musgrove's] like 'Really? I'm in.' Just like that. I was like 'Cool!'"
Chef Deckman is currently offering a four-course prix-fixe experience for $125, with the menu changing daily based on availability and freshness of seasonal ingredients.
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